Wiring advice needed

[Elf]

Hey, y'all --

I now have a pure sine wave, 300-watt inverter, and I want to install it
in my Class B.

The best place to mount it, spacewise -- in fact, almost the only place
-- is on an existing vertical wooden "partition" under one of my sofas.
The best part of this location is that it places it within almost
literally inches of the relay that my entire 12v house system runs
through (controlled by a "master" switch up front on a panel). The
downside of this location is that I won't be able to reach the inverter
to turn it on/off or to plug or unplug something.

Therefore, I want to mount a conventional 110v box approximately 2' from
the inverter, on a low wall where I can easily reach it. I would expect
to connect the two halves of a standard receptacle (split apart
electrically) to the two outlets on the inverter. Then I want to wire a
switch into this same box, or near it, that actually provides 12v to the
inverter so I can conveniently turn it on and off.

So here are my questions, related to the above scenario. Please read
carefully and pay close attention to the specific details. (Reader, that
last sentence was not intended for you. It was for those few here who
will misread or perhaps simply skip important words and come up with all
kinds of "advice" <g>.)

1. Can I (using 10-gauge wire and fusing the hot side for 35 amps to
match the 35-amp fuse already in the back of the inverter) connect the
inverter to the main 12v relay, or do I need to go directly to the house
battery? (The battery is about 2' away but hard to get to. The relay is
right *there*.) The relay is a continuous-duty, 100-amp White-Rodgers
that I installed several years ago to replace the original (and much
smaller) relay that had gone bad.

2. Can I use a standard household 110v light switch to provide 12v, 35a
power to the inverter? I would prefer to do this, if it will work, so
that I can mount a single box with the switch and a double receptacle in
it.

3. If not (#2), then I presume I need a 12v toggle rated for at least 35
amps, right?

4. Should the 110v receptacle (and the 110v light switch, if I can use
it -- see #2), be rated for 15 amps or 20 amps, or does it matter?

5. What gauge wire should I use to go from the output of the inverter to
the 110v receptacles mounted on the wall? The heaviest load I plan to
pull, right now, is 180 watts (an electric blanket that of course cycles
on and off). I wouldn't run anything else on it at the same time,
regardless.

6. The inverter has a ground connection on it, with a wingnut. This
connection clearly will have no effect on showing an open ground with a
tester, but is there any reason to connect it -- or any reason NOT to --
to the van chassis? The inverter manual doesn't address this, and when I
called their tech support guy, he was vague about it.

7. Assume a fully-charged, reasonably healthy, size G24, AGM house
battery. Approximately how long could I run said electric blanket off
the inverter (with no other 12v load except the hardwired smoke/CO
alarms) before my battery gets low enough to be a problem, either for
the battery or for the inverter? Just a guess will help. (10 minutes? 1
hour? 2 hours? 6 hours?)

[aja72]

I have no much more idea about this but i provide you one link form this you find solution of your problem.
rpc.com.au/products/inverters/motorhome-install/Installing-an-Inverter.html
Go through this link. In this link given brief information about the inverter connection.